What kind of coffee? > 커피의 종류 그리고 맛과 용어_Part_4

34년전의 일이다. 그러니까 우리 아들넘이 태어난 해… 1985.

Seattle에서 LA 내려온지 딱 일년 후.

그해 10월 중순부터 나는 펜실베이니아 Scranton이라는 탄광촌에서 한달 가량 머물게 되는데…

그당시 내 손에는 현금 만불 (Cash로 100불짜리 100장을 우리 회장님께서 출장비로 쓰라고 봉투에 넣어 주셨다.) 그리고 900만불짜리 L/C (Letter of Credit, 신용장) 사본과 P.O. (구매계약서) 사본 각 한통씩을 쥐고, 그 시골 탄광촌을 샅샅이 뒤지고 다녔다. 날씨는 11월초가 되자 얼마나 추웠는지 비내리는 프리웨이를 달리던 렌트카의 안테나가 꽁꽁 얼어붙을 정도. 새벽에 호텔에서 빠져나와 하루 대여섯군데 노천탄광을 돌며 Sampling해서 Coal Lab에 시료분석을 의뢰하고, 저녁에 다시 호텔로 돌아와 샤워하면 바닥엔 시커먼 석탄가루 자국이… 그때 눈속에 들어간 미세한 석탄가루로 인해 Dry Eye 증세 같은 알러지가 생겨 30년이 지난 지금까지 고생하고 있다.

어쨌든 그당시의 나는 그 나이에 걸맞는 꿈과 야망으로 꽉 차 있었고, 어떡하든 그 석탄 프로젝트를 성공리에 마무리 하기위해 물불 가리지않고 날아다녔다. 밥이라고는 그 시골동네 어느 중국집에서 허구한날 볶음밥… 일주일에 한번쯤은 4시간을 운전하여 필라델피아로 가서 한국식당을 찾아 김치찌게나 된장찌게를 먹고, 돌아올땐 김치 한병을 To go 해서 돌아와 호텔 창문밖에 숨겨두고…

P.O. 에 명시된 조항에 계약선적날짜보다 단 하루라도 선적이 지연되면 하루 1%씩 Invoice 금액에서 까는 조건. 1%면 하루 9만불씩 손해 본다는 얘기. 지금도 적지않은 금액이지만, 그당시는 정말 큰돈이었다. 그런데… 계약선적일이 딱 일주일 남을때까지도 P.O.에 명시된 무연탄 Specification을 맞출수가 없었다. 너무 답답하여 그당시 Seattle에서 내가 다녔던 학교에서 Computer Science로 PhD 과정에 있던 친구 L 에게 전화를 걸어 도움을 청했다. 수십군데의 Local Coal Mines 의 샘플링 데이타를 설명하고 어떻게 이들을 조합해야 P.O.상의 Spec에 맞출수 있는지 컴퓨터로 계산을 해달라고… 그런데 Linear Programing으로 계산해보니 결론은 Infeasible… 즉 아무리 뒤섞어봐도 불가능하다는 것. 한밤중에도 다 식어빠진 커피를 벌컥 벌컥 들이 마시며 줄담배…

ㅠ… 오늘은 여기까지.
내가 오늘 문득 이 이야기를 꺼내는 이유?… 새벽에 산책을하다 쳐다본 달이 거의 보름달… 갑자기 장자의 胡蝶夢이 생각나서다. 지금까지의 내 삶이 마치 꿈결 같아서… 꿈과 현실이 구분되지 않기에. 내가 오늘 새벽 마치 나비처럼 느껴져서. ㅎㅎ

To be continued after a coffee break…

Beethoven – Silencio

어제 집근처 Target 에 뭘 사러 갔다가 우연히 보게된 Samsung Tablet… @$299.
바로 살까하다… Wait a minute 혹시 우리 출장간 아들넘이 안쓰는 것이 있을지 모르니까 글마 돌아올때까지 참자.

아 마 분명히 있을 것이다. 난 내가 쓰는 MacBook Pro도 그 아이 한테서 얻은 거다. 우리 딸래미 것, 마눌님 것 모두 죄다 글마가 준것. 몇달전 iPad, Apple Tablet 얘기를 들었던 것 같다. 허면 $299 또 굳는 것… Charles Shaw가 몇 병이냐? 무려 100병… ㅎㅎ

그런데 진열된 요 물건을 이리저리 만져보니 어라?… 자동번역으로 영어/한글이 번갈아… 세상 참 편해졌다.

내 블로그 포스팅을 보니 먼저 영어로 뜬다. 그래… 바로 이거야. Facebook Posting도 그럼 무척 편해진다. 원래 난 Facebook에는 영어로 포스팅을 했었는데… 어느날 부터 이짓이 귀찮아져서 그냥 한글로 올리고 독자들에겐 Google 이나 Bing 번역프로그램을 사용해서 읽어보라고 했다. 때론 프랑스나 멀리 아프리카 알제리 필리핀 등에서도 메신저로 대화하자고 띵동띵동… ㅎㅎ

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다시 오늘의 주제로 Cabeza 커피 이야기 >

Brazil Dry Process Carmo de Minas >

This dry-process coffee shows an array of dark fruits, berry flavored fruit leather, stone fruits, and tamarind. Fruits are balanced by a nice sweet/bittersweet base, developed sugar and cocoa powder flavors. A bodied coffee that does great in most brew applications.

This is our sole dry process coffee from our first container of Camo de Minas coffees (don’t worry, there’s more on the way!). That being said, the quality is top notch and there is plenty to go around. The coffee comes from Fazenda Borgas, sitting adjacent to Fazenda Sertao. This lot is a separation of Yellow Bourbon, a varietal planted heavily on the farm. Preparation is very nice, which lends to a consistency in the cup. Carmo de Minas has a bit more altitude than most of the Cerrado coffees, and certainly more than Mogiana farms. The cultivars are generally the same as the other zones, but I feel the processing, while still on a large scale, has a good quality focus. And with the attention given to keeping lots separated by day and varietal, we have the ability to contain any issues with the coffee that might arise along the way.

The fruit flavors in this Carmo coffee are up-front, and backed with a solid base of developed sugar sweetness. It’s also boasts a thick, inky body, making for an amazing espresso option as well. The fragrance is filled with date and fig notes, as well as pungent molasses and dried berries. The wet aroma smells very jam-like, mixed with a dense caramel smell, and the break produces a sweet almond paste scent. The cup, while fruited indeed, strikes a nice balance between sweet caramel and bittering cocoa notes. These base flavors are highlighted by a long list of sweet fruit notes – peach, tamarind, raspberry, and ripe fig to name a few. There is a nut aspect too, much like the confectionary-sweet concoction of marzipan – honey and almond flower. Full City roasts are particularly loaded with dark fruit flavors, a retronasal pungency of raw honey and berries, and brooding cocoa powder in the finish. Overall, this is a really nice lot of Brazilian coffee that cups with relative cleanliness. Dark roasts are great, but this Brazil shows great in the City to City+ range too.

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Cabeza Coffee Glossary_4

Mulling Spice A spice mix for adding flavor and aroma to a warm beverage, apple cider or wine.
Mundo Novo A coffee cultivar; a cross between Typica and Bourbon, originally grown in Brazil
Muscovado A type of unrefined brown sugar with a strong molasses flavor, although it is not made by combining molasses with white sugar.
Musty An aroma and/or flavor that ranges from slight intensity to mildewy defect flavor.
Nematodes In coffee agriculture, nematodes as a pest affect the root of the coffee, attacking the plant. There are also beneficial types of nematodes that add to soil health.
Nesco Coffee Roaster A home air roaster with a 4oz capacity, a smoke reduction system, and auger-driven bean agitation.
New Crop Refers to fresh shipments of green coffee within the first month or two of the earliest arrivals
New York C The New York C market is the NYBOT trading platform for arabica coffees that determine base contract pricing
Nicaragua Nicaraguan coffees from the Segovia, Jinotega and Matagalpa regions are underrated. They often possess interesting cup character along with body and balance, outperforming many other balanced Central American and South American high-grown coffees in the cup.
Nitrogen Flushing Pushing nitrogen, an unreactive gas, into a bag of coffee to force out oxygen, which is more reactive.
Nutty Nutty is a broad flavor term, reminiscent of nuts … but what kind exactly?
Nylon  Nylon is the local name for N-39 coffee variety in Tanzania. It is known as Mbozi or Mbozi Mission, and is the original Bourbon type adopted in the South of Tanzania, Mbeya, Mbozi and Mbinga areas. There is a new type issued by TACRI called Mbozi Compact. 
Onan Ganjang A locality in North Sumatra within the greater Lintong growing area, as well as a local cultivar.
Orange Bourbon A variation of Bourbon that ripens to an orange color.
Organic Grown without the use of ariticial fertilizers, herbicides, etc.
Organoleptic Organoleptic refers to any sensory properties of, in this case, the coffee beverage.
Origin In coffee talk, it refers to a coffee-producing region or country; such as, I was just at origin.
Origin Flavor Origin Flavor is a term we use to describe coffee flavors that are intrinsic to a particular coffee from a particular origin, and in contrast to flavor we term Roast Taste
Outturn An outturn is a term used in East Africa to describe a dry mill batch from a particular estate or coop
Pacamara A large bean cultivar, a cross between Pacas and Maragogype with unique flavor properties.
Pacas A mutation of Bourbon cultivar that appeared in El Savador in 1949
Pache Pache is a mutation of Typica cultivar that orginates in Guatemala
Panama Panamas that are ubiquitous in the U.S. market and of little interest to us here. It’s just the Boquete coffees from the Chirqui district, ones from small family-owned farms that produce the truly distinct, unique coffees.
Panela Panela is the minimally processed sugar with floral and vanilla accents
Papilla The mushroom-like projections on the tongue that contain taste buds.
Papua New Guinea Papua New Guinea is a distinct coffee among the Indonesians, even though it doesn’t even have an entire island to call it’s own.
Passionfruit A very aromatic fruit used for juice, or to eat directly. In coffee it can be found in the aroma and flavor of Gesha coffee, and some Colombias
Past Crop Refers to an older coffee not from the New Crop or the Current Crop.
Patio-Drying A term to indicate that a coffee was dried in the sun after processing, on a paved or brick patio.
Paul Songer Currently on the staff of Cup of Excellence, Paul is head judge for many of the competitions, and an expert in sensory analysis.
Peaberry A peaberry is a green coffee bean that has a rounded form
Peak Of Harvest A period of time in the middle of the crop where the higher altitudes mature and where each tree has the highest percentage of mature cherry.
Penagos A Colombian company that produces demucilage coffee processors.
Percolator A type of coffee brewer where water is percolated through a mass of ground coffee to extract the flavor.
Peru Peruvian coffees have Central American brightness but in a South American coffee flavor package overall. The good organic lots do have more of a rustic coffee character.
Phenols A compound in coffee that at high levels contributes to negative flavors, but can have positive aspects as well
Phosphoric Acid One of many acids that contribute to positive flavor perception in coffee; more phosphoric acid might lead to the sense of higher acidity overall.
Piney A slightly resinous pine sap flavor, unusual but attractive in some cases.
Pinhalense A Brazilian coffee equipment manufacturer
Pink Bourbon A rare variation of Bourbon that ripens to a pink color.
Piquant Meaning pleasantly pungent or zesty in taste, spicy, provocative, sapid.
Pomelo Ancestral grapefruit from Southeast Asia – it has mild grapefruit flavor but low bitterness.
Portafilter The part of an espresso machine which holds the filter basket, into which coffee grounds are placed.
Potato Defect A cup taint with the strong smell of raw potato, caused by a bacteria that then triggers a pyrazine reaction, resulting in the off flavor. This affects coffees from Rwanda, Burundi and other countries near Lake Kivu
Pour-Over Drip A manual drip breing method involving hot water, a filter of some kind.
Pre-infusion An espresso machine is said to use pre-infusion if it applies a moderate amount of pressure to the coffee before applying full brew pressure.
Preparation Preparation refers to the dry-milling steps of preparing coffee for export: hulling, grading, classifying, sorting.
Prime Attribute Part of our coffee reviews, we summarize the main (most obvious) sensory experience of a coffee.
PROCAFE A coffee non-profit research firm in El Salvador
Processing The removal of the cherry and parchment from the coffee seed.
Puerto Rico Puerto Rican coffee has the typical island profile. These coffees, which include Jamaica and Kona, have a soft cup, not acidic, balanced, and mild.
Pulp Natural Pulp natural is a method of processing coffee to transform it from the tree fruit to a green bean. The skin is removed from the coffee, after which the coffee is dried with the fruit clinging to the parchment layer.
Pulping The first step in processing wet-process coffee, pulp natural or forced demucilage coffees.
Pulpy Can refer to flavor or mouthfeel. On terms of flavor, it means the negative flavor of fermenty coffee fruit
Pungent Refers to an aggressive, intense amoma or flavor, often related to spices (pepper) or roast tastes
Purpurascens A purple-leaf coffee mutant, sometimes used in genetic testing
Pyradines A set of chemical compounds found in coffee, including nicotinic acid (niacin)
Pyrans Related to Furans, they are a product of sugars and caramelization.
Pyrolysis A type of thermolytic reaction of organic materials. In coffee roasting it results in caramelization, and a host of other chemical and physical changes in the coffee.
Pyrroles There are 70 identified Pyrroles in coffee, important aromatic compounds.
Qishr Qishr is an infused tea beverage that you make using the dried coffee husks of the coffee fruit, a by-product of of the natural dry-process method.
Quakers A quaker is an industry term to describe under-ripe, undeveloped coffee seeds that fail to roast properly.
Quinic Acid An important acid in the chemistry of coffee, positive to cup quality in moderate amounts, but leading to perceived sourness and astringency.
Rainforest Alliance Rainforest Alliance certification is a broad certification guaranteeing that an agricultural product has met certain economic, ecological, and social standards.
Raised Beds Raised beds, also refered to as african-style beds are elevated beds used for drying coffee when dry-processing.
Rambung An Ethiopia cultivar brought to Java in 1928
Refined Sugar Common white sugar. In coffee tasting, it refers to a clear, clean sweetness, with an absence of other characteristics.
Restrained A descriptive term I use to communicate a well-structured, classic, clean flavor profile from a wet-processed coffee.
RFA Rain Forest Alliance designation for coffee grown under sustainable conditions working towards organic farming when possible
Rich Mrs. Olsen likes rich coffee. At Sweet Maria’s, we are not sure what rich means… but if you buy a lot of coffe from us, maybe we will (hint, hint).
Rio Zona The lowest grade in the Brazil scoring system
Rioy A defect term referring to harsh, acrid, medicine flavors from Brazilian coffees of the lowest order; named for Rio de Janeiro.
Roast Defect A problem with the roasting machine or process, resulting in off flavors in the cup
Roast Profile Roast Profile refers to the relationship between time and temperature in coffee roasting.
Roast Taste The set of flavors that result from the degree-of-roast.
Roasted Coffee Storage Roasted coffee is best stored in an air tight container and keeps for about 7 days.
Roasting The application of heat to green coffee seeds (beans) to create palatable material for brewing a great cup!
Round Usually referring to mouthfeel, a sense of completeness and fullness
Rubbery A taste fault giving the coffee beans a highly pronounced burnt-rubber character.
Ruiru 11 An Arabica cultivar from Kenya, a dwarf form with resistance to CBB and CBD
Rust Fungus Known as La Roya in the Americas, this disease diminishes fruit production and ultimately kills the plant
Rustic A general characterization of pleasanty natural flavors, less spohisticated and less refined, but appealing.
Rwanda Rwandan coffee was, at one time, rarely seen in the United States as either a Specialty grade or low-end commercial coffee.
S-Line A set of cultivars developed in India
S.288 Selection 288, a coffee leaf rust-resistant strain of arabica released by the Coffee Board of India in 1937
S795 S795 is a hardy Arabica variety developed in India.
Sage A flavor hint of sage found in coffee, either leafy sage, dried sage, or sage flower
Sailor A historic name for floaters
Salty Salty is one of four basic sapid (in the mouth) tastes: Sour, Sweet, Salty, Bitter. It can have minerally aspects in coffee.
Sapid Flavors Pleasant tastes, referring to in the mouth sensations derived from the basic flavors: salty, sweet, sour, bitter, savory (umami)
Sarchimor A Catimor-relative, crossed between Villa Sarchi and HdT
Scale Mineral buildup formed over time as hard water is heated in a boiler.
Scorching Patches of discolored burn marks on the coffee bean, due to a high-heat roast environment or other roast error.
Scott Laboratories The Kenya research organization that was contracted with cultivar development from 1934-1963
Scottish Mission The Scots brought Mokka coffees into Kenya, from Yemen.
Screen-drying A method of drying coffee in the sun, laying it on elevated screens or mats to allow air movement through the coffee.
Screening Running coffee through a screen with holes of a fixed size to sort beans for size.
Second Crack After First Crack, a roast reaction around 440 to 450 degrees that is distingushed by a snapping sound.
Semi-Washed An uncertain term to describe a coffee processing technique somewhere between wet-process and dry-process
Semperflorens A mutant cultivar with Bourbon genetic background.

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